Selvedge simply explained: How to weave clean edges

A selvedge (US spelling: selvage) is the side edge of a woven fabric, created during weaving by the change in direction of the weft thread. This edge is immediately recognisable: it is usually slightly thicker and firmer than the rest of the fabric. This is because the weft thread reverses on each side of the fabric, reinforcing the edge.

Due to its firmer structure, the selvedge is often not used as a seam allowance when cutting fabrics, in order to avoid distortion or chafing edges in garments. In some cases, however – for example in the traditional kilt – the selvedge deliberately serves as a finishing edge and replaces the hem.

For us weavers, the selvedge is important because it finishes the fabric at the sides. Especially for projects such as scarves, blankets or wall hangings that are not cut, the selvedge remains visible and should therefore be clean and even.

If you are interested in weaving, we recommend you take a look at our website - Berliner Webstühle. As a specialised retailer, we offer Europe's largest selection of looms, weaving frames, weaving yarn and accessories.

 

Typical selvedge problems for beginners

Many people learning to weave know the feeling: the first attempts on the weaving frame often end with untidy edges. You do not want the fabric to draw in, but you do not want loops at the edges either. Two problems occur particularly often:

• Drawn-in edges: The fabric becomes narrower towards the edges because the selvedges pull inwards. The edges look too tight and the whole piece loses width.
  
  
• Loops at the edges: Instead of keeping up taut, the edge threads form small loops or curves pointing outwards. The edge looks loose, uneven and "frayed".

Sometimes waves also appear along the selvedges: the edge is then not straight but wavy, because tighter and looser sections alternate. These are all typical weaving faults at the edge, and they are especially common among beginners.

Causes of uneven selvedges

Uneven selvedges do not happen without a reason. Here are the most common causes of this classic beginner's mistake in weaving:

• Too much pull on the weft thread: A very common problem is that the weft thread is pulled too tight as it is inserted. Many beginners want the thread to sit "nice and firm" at the edge, but pull it so taut that the selvedges are drawn together. The result: the fabric becomes narrower at the sides, because the edges migrate inwards.
  
  
• Not enough slack in the weft thread: The opposite (but just as problematic!) is a weft thread laid in too loosely. If the thread is placed through the shed without tension or without the correct angle, it cannot lie taut at the edge. The edge threads then do not sit snugly, and loops appear.
  
  
• Uneven warp tension: Warp thread tension also plays a role. If the outer warp threads are slacker than the rest, the edges have less tension. This overly soft edge tension means the edges cannot keep up with the rest of the fabric, and waves or loops easily form at the edge.
  
  
• Uneven beat: When weaving, the beat of the weft with the reed or the shuttle determines how densely and evenly the thread lies. If you beat very firmly at one moment and very lightly at the next, differences in density arise which show up as a wavy selvedge.
  
  
• Hesitant handling at the edge: Beginners are often unsure at the edges, hesitate while guiding the thread, unconsciously change the tension, or forget to wrap the thread correctly around the last warp thread at the edge.

The good news: all of these causes can be fixed, or avoided from the outset. The next section gives you tips and tricks to eliminate weaving faults at the edges and achieve even selvedges.

4 tips for even selvedges

Weaving clean selvedges is not magic; with a little practice and the right knacks you will get straight, taut edges without loops. Here are the most important tips at a glance:

PS: If you are still stuck despite the tips below, do get in touch with us – Berliner Webstühle – and we will find a solution together.

1. Lay the weft thread in a curve (45° method)

An often-quoted trick for even selvedges is inserting the weft thread correctly. Instead of pulling the weft through straight and taut, lay it through the shed in a curve. In practice this means: guide the weft thread through the warp at an angle of roughly 45°, and only bring it down to the edge at the selvedge. This small "curve" gives the thread enough play to settle as you beat it in, without pulling the edges inwards.

Important: pull the thread at the edge only tight enough that it lies snugly, but does not narrow the edge. Then beat the weft in carefully with the reed, ideally from the centre of the fabric outwards.

2. Check the thread tension (neither too tight nor too loose)

Tension is everything in weaving, above all at the edges. Make sure that both the warp threads and the weft are always guided with the appropriate tension. Too much tension on the weft leads to tight edges and draw-in. Too little tension, on the other hand, lets the threads go slack.

The warp tension on the weaving frame should be even; check the outer warp threads in particular when you tension the warp.

Ashford Warp Weights (Pack of 2)

3. An even rhythm and beat

Try to find an even rhythm as you weave. Every weft pick should be beaten in with a similar force, so that the density of the fabric stays constant and the edges run straight.

4. Floating selvedges

A pro tip for more advanced weavers is floating selvedges. These are additional edge threads that are not threaded through a heddle. They lie loosely in the shed on each side of the fabric and are carried along with every pick – ideal for more complex weaves such as twill.

More aids and tricks for clean edges

A classic tool used by experienced weavers is the temple.

Robust metal temple from Toika

Wooden temple from Louët

This device is stretched across the fabric while you weave and keeps the weaving width constant. For beginners on a weaving frame a temple is not strictly necessary, but it is good to know that this option exists.

Bonus: finishing – after-treatment for even better edges

Water and warmth relax the fibres; the fabric may shrink very slightly and settle. A warm bath or a strong burst of steam from the iron often works wonders: the threads move into place, and smaller waves or unevenness at the edge disappear.

Checklist – avoiding weaving faults: how to achieve even selvedges

• Tension the warp evenly – Watch out for constant thread tension right from warping.
• Lay the weft in a curve – Guide the weft thread through the shed at a slight angle (approx. 30–45°).
• Do not yank, just lay it in – Pull the weft thread at the edge just tight enough that it lies snugly.
• Make every beat deliberate – Even force when beating in keeps the edges consistent.
• Check the weaving frame regularly – Keep an eye on your edges while you weave.
• Use floating selvedges when needed – Very helpful for complex patterns.
• Use aids – A temple for wide pieces.
• Plan for finishing – Washing and steaming settles the threads and evens out irregularities.
• Be patient – Perfect selvedges come with practice.

Good luck and happy weaving!

PS: If you are interested in weaving, we recommend you take a look at our website - Berliner Webstühle.