A selvage (also called weft, fabric edge, selvage or selvage in English) is the side edge of a woven fabric that is created during weaving by the change in direction of the weft thread This edge is immediately recognizable: it's usually slightly thicker and stronger than the rest of the fabric. This is because the weft thread reverses on each side of the fabric, reinforcing the edge.
Due to its firmer structure, the selvedge is often not used as a seam allowance when cutting fabrics to avoid deformation or chafing of edges in garments. In some cases, however – for example in the traditional kilt – the selvedge deliberately serves as a finishing edge and replaces the hem .
For us weavers, the selvedge is important because it forms the selvedge at the sides of the fabric. Especially for projects like scarves, blankets, or wall hangings that aren't cut, the selvedge remains visible and should therefore be clean and even.
If you're interested in weaving, we recommend you take a look at our website - Berliner Webstühle . As a specialized retailer, we offer Europe's largest selection of looms, frames, weaving yarn, and accessories.
Typical problems with selvedges for beginners
Many people learning to weave are familiar with this: The first attempts on the loom often end with messy edges. You don't want the fabric to shrink, but you also don't want loops on the edges. Two problems occur particularly frequently:
- Drawn-in edges: The fabric narrows toward the edges because the selvedges are drawn inward. The edges appear too tight, and the entire piece loses width.
- Loops at the edges: Instead of staying taut, the edge threads form small loops or curves outward. The edge looks loose, uneven, and frayed.
Sometimes waves also appear on the selvedges: the edge is not straight, but wavy, due to alternating tighter and looser sections. These are all typical weaving errors on the edge, especially common among beginners.
Causes of uneven selvedges
Uneven selvedges don't occur without reason. Here are the most common causes of these beginner weaving mistakes:
- Too much tension on the weft thread: A very common problem is that the weft thread is pulled too tightly during insertion. Many beginners want the thread to be "nice and tight" at the edge, but pull it so tight that the selvedges are pulled together. The result: The fabric becomes narrower at the sides because the edges migrate inward. .
- Insufficient slack in the weft thread: The opposite (but equally problematic!) is a weft thread that's inserted too loosely. If the thread is threaded through the shed without tension or at the correct angle, it won't be able to lie taut at the edge. The edge threads won't fit snugly, resulting in loops.
- Uneven warp thread tension: Warp thread tension also plays a role. If the outer warp threads are looser than the others (e.g., because they weren't evenly tensioned during warp weaving), the edges will have less tension. This excessive edge tension will result in the edges not keeping up with the rest of the fabric, and waves or loops will easily form at the edge. Conversely, excessively tight edge threads can cause the edges to become permanently too tight.
- Uneven beat: When weaving, the weft's beat with the loom comb or shuttle determines how densely and evenly the thread is laid. If the beat is applied very forcefully at times and very lightly at others, differences in density arise. An uneven rhythm is particularly noticeable at the edges: some areas are beaten more tightly (the edge shrinks), others more loosely (the edge curves slightly outward). This interplay manifests as a wavy selvedge.
- Insecure handling of the edge: Beginners are often unsure of the edge, hesitate to guide the thread, unconsciously adjust the tension, or forget to correctly wrap the thread around the last warp thread. Such inaccuracies quickly lead to uneven edges.
The good news: All of these causes can be remedied or avoided in the first place. The next section provides tips and tricks to help you eliminate weaving errors on the edges and achieve even selvedges.
4 tips for even selvedges
Weaving clean selvedges isn't magic; with a little practice and the right tricks, you can achieve straight, tight edges without loops. Here are the most important tips at a glance:
P.S.: If you're still stuck despite the tips below, please contact us – Berliner Webstühle – and we'll find a solution together. Alternatively, we can connect you with an experienced weaver in your area.
1. Insert the weft thread in a curve (45° method)
An often-cited trick for even selvedges is correctly inserting the weft thread. Instead of pulling the weft straight and taut, loop it through the shed in a curve. Specifically, this means: Guide the weft thread through the warp at approximately a 45° angle and only at the edge down to the selvedge. This small "curve" gives the thread enough slack to settle during the casting-on process without pulling the edges inward.
Important: Pull the thread at the edge just enough to fit snugly, but not to constrict the edge. A good guideline: The weft thread should only gently deflect at the last warp thread. Using this technique, you prevent loops and, at the same time, prevent the selvedge from shrinking—the fabric remains the same width across the entire width. Then, carefully beat the weft with the weaving comb, ideally from the center of the fabric outwards. This distributes the tension evenly, and the correct thread tension is almost achieved automatically.
💡 Alternative method: Insert the shot diagonally
Some experienced weavers prefer a slightly faster/easier method, where the weft thread is simply drawn diagonally through the shed instead of in a distinct curve. They then gently pull the thread along the edge until it sits neatly. This technique saves time and—with a little feel for the correct tension—can produce equally even selvedges. It's also important not to pull the thread too tightly, so the edges don't pull inward.
2. Check the thread tension (neither too tight nor too loose)
Tension is key when weaving, especially at the edges. Make sure that both the warp and weft threads are always guided with the appropriate tension. Excessive tension on the weft (e.g., by pulling the shuttle abruptly) leads to tight edges and draw-in (the fabric shrinks). Too little tension, on the other hand, causes the threads to slacken (risk of loops).
The warp thread tension in the loom should be even; pay particular attention to the outer warp threads when tensioning the warp. Pull the warp tight enough to create a clean shed, but not so tight that the weave becomes stiff at the edges.
Tip: Some weavers use small weights on the outermost warp threads or tension them a little more tightly to ensure consistently tight edges—experiment with what works best on your loom. It's important to remain attentive throughout the entire process: Check regularly for weaving errors and adjust the tension before long stretches of flawed edges develop.
|
Ashford Warp Weights (Pack of 2) |
3. Even rhythm and attack
Try to find a consistent rhythm when weaving. Each weft row should be cast on with a similar force to keep the density of the fabric consistent and the edges straight. Many beginners tend to weave sometimes hastily, sometimes hesitantly. It's better to work calmly and deliberately: First, gently push the weft thread toward the already woven fabric and close the shed, then cast on. A consistent beat (cast-on) helps enormously in achieving beautiful edges. Practice makes perfect: Over time, you'll develop a feel for how firmly you need to cast on so that the edges are neither too loose nor too tight.
Remember: It's better to weave a little slower and with more concentration. Carefulness pays off with better selvedges. Focus on checking the thread's position on the edge after each weft. This will help you recognize irregularities and adjust your rhythm. A steady pace and consistent hand movements will result in noticeably smoother, straighter selvedges. .
4. Floating Selvedges
A pro tip for advanced weavers—especially with more complex patterns—is floating selvedges. These are additional edge threads that are unhedled, meaning they are not threaded through the heddles. These floating selvedges lie loosely in the shed on each side of the fabric and are carried along with each weft.
What's the point of all this? With some weaves (e.g., twill or patterns with skipped threads), the last warp thread wouldn't be caught by the weft in every row. The result would be untidy edges. Floating selvedge provides a solution: The additional edge thread ensures that the weft thread has a thread at the edge to wrap around with each pass. This results in cleaner, bound edges. For plain weave (tabby), floating selvedges are generally not needed, as each row takes the edge with it anyway. However, if you are weaving more advanced patterns with your loom, it is worth knowing this technique.
Here's how it works: You clamp an additional warp thread on each side and run it through the loom comb, but not through a reed or heddle. This thread is therefore not raised or lowered, but "floats" freely. While weaving, you alternately guide your weft thread over the floating edge thread into the shed entrance and then out of the shed under it. After a few rows, this will become second nature. Make sure to keep the floating edge threads taut enough; you can hang small weights on them to keep them evenly taut. .
Result: significantly smoother selvedges, especially with patterned fabrics, because the weft can no longer form a loop at the edge.
More tools and tricks for clean edges
In addition to the techniques mentioned above, there are a few tools that can help you achieve perfect selvedges. A classic tool used by experienced weavers is the temple .
|
|
 |
This device is stretched across the fabric during weaving and maintains a constant weaving width. The temple has small teeth or clamps that grip the outermost warp threads and hold them at the desired width. This prevents the selvedges from warping inward, keeping the fabric wide and the edges nice and taut. A temple is especially useful for wide pieces or materials with a strong tendency to shrink.
However, you have to work carefully (the teeth can be quite snug, as some have painfully experienced) and move the tool regularly when weaving upwards. For beginners, a temple isn't absolutely necessary, but it's good to know that it's an option.
Another trick: double edge threads. Some weavers stretch two warp threads per slot or hole in the comb on each side to make the edge more robust. Doubling the number of warp threads at the edge distributes the friction and tension of the weft across two threads, so a single edge thread is less likely to break, and the edge remains stable. This method can be particularly useful with very thin yarns or for projects that are subject to heavy wear (e.g., rugs). However, make sure the two threads work together as if they were one—otherwise, one of them could remain slack and cause loops again.
Last but not least: patience and practice. Don't worry if the selvedges aren't perfect on your first projects. Focus on implementing the tips above step by step. With each row you weave, you'll gain more routine. The more experience you gain, the more automatically you'll insert the weft at the correct angle, control the tension, and maintain a regular rhythm. Perfect selvedges will almost come naturally over time.
Bonus: Finishing - post-treatment for even better edges
The finishing of your fabric should not be underestimated. Once you've removed your piece from the loom, you can smooth out small irregularities on the selvedges by finishing. What does this mean specifically? For example, washing or steaming the fabric helps. Water and heat relax the fibers; the fabric may shrink slightly and settle. A warm bath (depending on the material) or a strong burst of steam from an iron (carefully and with a cloth between ironing so as not to flatten the fabric, but only to relax it) often works wonders: The threads fall into place, and minor waves or bumps on the edge disappear.
Especially with wool, washing (also called fulling or filling ) causes fibers to fluff up slightly and fill gaps. The fabric then appears more even, including the edges. Make sure to follow the yarn care instructions and, if necessary, block your work after washing to ensure the edges dry nice and straight.
Tip: Gently ironing a dry fabric can also help: Lay the piece flat, cover it with a damp cloth, and iron along the edges with light pressure to smooth out any unruly waves. After finishing, you'll notice that your selvedges have become even more even.
Checklist – Avoid weaving errors: How to achieve even selvedges
- Tension the warp evenly: Ensure consistent thread tension when threading the warp. Make sure to tighten the edge warp threads well, especially so the edges are neither slack nor overtightened.
- Inserting the weft in a curve: Guide the weft thread through the shed at a slight angle (approx. 30–45°). Avoid pulling the thread straight and taut—this will prevent draw-in and loops.
- Don't tear, just tighten: Pull the weft thread at the edge just enough so that it touches the last warp thread. No jerking! The selvedge should be taut but not distorted.
- Perform each cast-on consciously: Cast on the thread with even force. Develop a smooth weaving rhythm—this will ensure the edges remain even along the entire length.
- Check your loom regularly: Pause every now and then while weaving and check your edges. Are they getting narrower? Are loops forming? Early corrections will save you frustration.
- Use floating selvedges when necessary: For complex patterns or issues with the edge thread, set up an unfloated edge thread. This helps ensure the weft thread always stays firmly attached to the edge.
- Use aids: Do not hesitate to use a It's recommended to use a temple, especially for wide pieces. Double edge threads can also provide more stable edges.
- Plan for finishing: Wash, steam, or stretch your finished fabric. Finishing will settle the threads and make the selvedges even more even.
- Be patient: Perfect selvedges don't come overnight. Take your time with each project and learn from each Irregularity. With practice, you'll become more confident and your edges will automatically improve.
- Allow yourself to make mistakes and learn from them: Every pro starts somewhere. If an edge isn't perfect, analyze the cause (too tight, too loose, etc.) and incorporate this insight into the next piece – this way you'll avoid the same weaving mistake next time!
With these tips and the checklist in mind, you'll quickly see progress as you learn to weave. Even selvedges aren't magic, but the result of understanding, technique, and practice. Enjoy the process—soon your woven edges will look just as neat as you want!
Good luck and happy weaving!
PS: If you're interested in weaving, we recommend you take a look at our website - Berliner Webstühle. As a specialized retailer, we offer Europe's largest selection of looms, frames, weaving yarn, and accessories.