Congratulations on your first loom! Weaving on a reed loom is a wonderful craft – relaxing, creative, and always surprising. To help you get started in a relaxed manner (and not lose interest while threading or winding), it's worth getting a few tried-and-tested tools. In this post, I'll show you which accessories are really useful – both for beginners and for later, when you want to explore your creativity.
If you are looking for high-quality looms, accessories or weaving yarns, we recommend you take a look at our page – Berliner Webstühle – to throw.
Quick overview: What accessories do I need?
- Reed combs in various finenesses
- Retracting hook (leaf cutter)
- shuttle
- Warping pin, warping board or winding rod
- Tree supports (e.g. warping strips, wrapping paper, bamboo strips)
- Reading sticks (pick-up sticks)
- Additional comb holder
- Base frame for the loom
- fringe twister
- Wool needles
- Scissors
- Texsolv cord
- Notebook and pen
1. Reed combs in various finenesses
The comb (also called reed, reed, weaving comb, or reed) is the heart of your loom – and depending on which yarn you use, you need different finenesses.
If you're unsure which comb you need, here's a little trick: Wrap your planned warp thread tightly around a ruler for a length of one centimeter and count the threads. Divide this number by two – and you'll know roughly what gauge your reed should have. For example, if you can get four threads per centimeter, a 20/10 comb is just right (that corresponds to 5 dpi).
Depending on the thickness of the weft thread, you can vary slightly:
- Thicker weft → prefer a coarser comb e.g. 30/10
- Thinner weft → can also be a fine comb e.g. 60/10
The desired fabric type also plays a role. A scarf can be woven in a light, airy way, while a table runner or pillowcase needs a bit more density.
Here we have a detailed article on weaving combs and their fineness: Short & Sweet: Understanding Weaving Combs and Choosing the Right One
Otherwise, you'll find weaving combs from all well-known manufacturers on our website. We even manufacture custom-made weaving combs made of stainless steel upon request: Custom-made stainless steel weaving comb
2. Retracting hook (leaf cutter)
A reed hook is a tremendous help when pulling the warp through the holes and slots of the reed comb. Many looms come with one. If not, an inexpensive plastic hook with a wide and narrow point will suffice. Metal hooks with wire loops also work well.
It is important that it fits through the fine holes of the comb and must not have any sharp edges so that your warp threads are not damaged.
The most popular product in our range is the Kromski leaf cutter with integrated eyelet shown above: Kromski leaf cutter with varnished wooden handle
Alternatively – and particularly inexpensive – is the leaf cutter from Ashford: Ashford leaf cutter for looms
3. Warping pin, warping board & winding rod
Before you can weave, the warp needs to be properly prepared. There are two basic methods for this—and depending on which you choose, you'll need different accessories:
- For cross warping , the classic indirect warping method, you use warping pegs or a warping board (as shown above). Here, you wind the entire warp, including the warping cross, either over two dowels or on a board with several pegs. The cross will help you later when threading the threads in the correct order. This method gives you a lot of control and is ideal for longer warps.
- For direct warping , as Ashford often demonstrates in her videos, you use a winding rod with a clamp. You thread the threads directly from the ball of yarn through the comb and stretch them across the table onto the winding rod. This method is particularly space-saving and quick – perfect for smaller projects or when you want to keep things simple.
Both paths lead to a well-prepared necklace – just choose what suits your style (and space) better.
Note : Some looms—for example, the Kromski Harp—already have a built-in warping board or frame, or come with a winding rod. It's best to check which warping method is included with your loom. This way, you can save yourself the hassle of purchasing the accessories.
An overview of the warping pins, warping boards, winding rods and warping trees in our shop can be found here: Warping chain
4. Shuttle or weaving needle
When it comes to bringing the weft thread through the shed, you basically have two options: with a shuttle or a weaving needle (also called a weaving fork). Both tools have their place – depending on the project, yarn, and weaving machine.
- The shuttle is particularly useful for larger woven pieces. It is pushed through the shed and releases the thread in a controlled manner. Classic shuttles have a spool inside and are designed specifically for looms—for example, the Ashford table loom or larger floor looms.
- Weaving needles (also called weft forks) are ideal for the reed loom and are often included with the loom. The needle is flat; the thread is wound around the outside and then guided through the shed by hand.
If you are working with a reed loom, weaving needles or weft forks are usually the more practical choice.
Weaving needles in our shop: Weaving needle overview
Weaving shuttles in our shop: Weaving shuttles
5. Tree aids (e.g. warping strips or wrapping paper)
When winding your warp onto the warp beam, you need spacers – otherwise the threads will sink into the lower layers and the tension will become uneven.
You can:
- Take cardboard strips (pictured above by Ashford)
- Use wooden strips
- Use wrapping paper
- or (the do-it-yourself option!) cut bamboo placemats to fit
It's important to note that the beaming guide should always be slightly wider than your fabric so that the outer threads also run smoothly – e.g., 44 cm for a 40 cm wide frame.
Cardboard warping strips: Ashford Cardboard warping strips
Wooden warping strips: Louët wooden warping strips
6. Reading sticks (pick-up sticks)
Pick-up sticks are optional and not absolutely necessary for beginners. However, they significantly expand your design options when it comes to patterns and textures. They are definitely an exciting addition for advanced weavers.
Two dowels are usually sufficient. Make sure they're slightly wider than your weaving width so you can reach all the threads at once.
Reading sticks in our shop: Reading sticks
7. Additional comb holder
If you want to develop your creativity further, a second comb is a small miracle: you can weave more tightly, work with offset weaves or even incorporate simple twill patterns.
Many modern frames (e.g., from Ashford or Kromski) come with a second comb holder from the factory. You then only need a second reed comb of the same gauge as the first. However, with Glimakra frames, such as the Glimakra Emilia, the second weaving comb holder must be purchased separately.
The second loom comb holder from Glimakra is available here: Second loom comb holder for Glimåkra Emilia & Susanna looms
8. Base frame for the loom
Sooner or later the question arises: Do you need a base for your loom?
Basically, you can also just lean the frame against a table and hold the end with the stock tree on your lap – this works quite well, especially with narrow frames.
But: With larger frames, you'll definitely feel the weight on your legs after a while. And if you're pushing long shuttles from side to side, the whole thing will be quite strenuous for your back. Additionally, with wider frames, you'll need correspondingly wide tables to lean on – which isn't always available.
A base frame provides real relief here. You can sit comfortably upright, have both hands free, and even stand up from time to time without the fabric slipping. Yes, it costs a bit extra and takes up space – but with a frame width of 40 cm or more, it's definitely a worthwhile investment.
A weaver friend of mine put it aptly when writing this article: “You can’t emphasize the advantages of a base frame enough!” – and that’s exactly true.
Especially if you want to weave on the move—for example, in the garden, on the balcony, or at different locations—a stand is a real blessing. It's easy to move, ensures stability, and raises your frame to a comfortable working height. And, as already mentioned, it's also a great ergonomic convenience.
In our shop, we offer a suitable base for every common loom model. You can find an overview here: Bases.
A suitable stand for the Glimåkra Emilia loom is available here: Emilia base frame.
9. Fringe twister
Twisted fringes are not only a pretty eye-catcher, but also protect the ends of your necklace from unraveling. You can twist them the traditional way by hand—it's possible, but it requires patience—or you can build your own electronic solution, such as a Hair Braider from DM, which was originally designed for twisting hair.
The Ashford fringe winder shown below is also a suitable alternative. However, opinions vary: Some weavers report that twisting the fringe by hand is almost as fast, while others are very satisfied with the tool.
Fringes give your woven pieces a beautiful, clean finish. The Ashford Fringe Winder is available here: Fringe Winder
10. Wool needles
Wool needles are real all-rounders when it comes to weaving: you can use them to sew threads, repair small weaving errors, close edges or even work pretty decorations directly into the fabric.
Which needle you need depends primarily on your yarn. Important:
- The needle eye should be large enough for your yarn
- The tip should be rounded so that nothing is damaged or split
- And it should fit in your hand so that you can work well with it
For your guidance, here are a few suitable needle sizes for common yarns:
| Needle size | Yarn thickness (running length) |
| 13 | 6-ply sock yarn (100 m / 50 g) |
| 18 | 4-ply sock yarn (200 m / 50 g) |
| 20 | Fine cotton yarn (420 m / 50 g) |
So having a small selection of needles in your sewing basket is always a good idea – you'll need them sooner than you think!
11. Scissors (preferably three)
A good pair of fabric scissors, a small pair of embroidery scissors, and a cheap pair of paper scissors – that's your ideal trio. Why? Paper dulls scissors, so always cut your warp strips or wrapping paper with cheap scissors.
12. Texsolv cord
This sturdy cord is incredibly versatile—you can use it to hang things, tie things together, or even create your own temporary structures. It's available in various strengths and should be in every weaving studio.
13. Notebook & Pen
Don't underestimate this! Write down what you tried, which yarn combinations worked—and which didn't. If you managed to make a piece that turned out particularly well, you'll be grateful for your notes later.
Conclusion: With attention to detail to web happiness
Weaving is even more enjoyable with the right accessories – and many little helpers ensure everything runs smoothly. You may not need everything right away – but with each finished piece, you'll notice what you're still missing or what could make your work more enjoyable.
So: unpack your frame, grab your yarn – and let the shuttle dance!
If you are looking for high-quality looms, accessories or weaving yarns, we recommend you take a look at our page – Berliner Webstühle – to throw.