How do I choose the right weaving yarn?

Before you can really start weaving, you should consider what you want to weave: A soft, elegantly draping scarf? A sturdy and absorbent tea towel? Depending on your goal, you'll need different materials and techniques – your project determines the path.

While you typically work with traditional weaving yarn on a rigid heddle loom, you can even weave unusual materials such as fabric scraps, paper, wire or garden plants. In this article, however, we'll first look at the basics: the yarn.

If you are looking for high-quality rigid heddle looms, weaving looms or weaving yarns, we recommend taking a look at our site – Berliner Webstühle.

Choosing yarn: The foundation of your fabric

Warp and weft – these are the two main components of weaving. The warp is stretched onto the frame, and the weft is wound onto a shuttle and guided through the warp. In the finished fabric, the warp threads run vertically, while the weft threads run horizontally.

Because your fabric is made up of both yarn directions, the right choice is crucial. Do you want a cuddly soft scarf? Then choose merino wool. Do you want a robust and absorbent fabric, such as for a towel? Then choose linen or cotton. Our tip: Take a look around your home and learn from the textiles that already surround you – which fibres are used in your favourite clothes?

Otherwise, you can of course also get advice. Browsing through a local craft shop or yarn shop is not only a lot of fun – you'll often also meet like-minded people there with whom you can exchange ideas and be inspired.

What many beginners underestimate: handicraft markets or arts and crafts markets in your area! Just Google it – there are a surprising number of them, and you'll often find real treasures and personal contact with experienced hand weavers there.

Tip: Our absolute favourite yarn, by the way, comes from the Canadian manufacturer Maurice Brassard.

Maurice Brassard 100% Cotton Yarn Ne 8/2 – 227g – Dark Olive

Maurice Brassard 100% Cotton Yarn Ne 8/2 – 227g – Rose

What makes a good warp yarn?

There's a lot of debate around the question of what you can warp a rigid heddle loom with. Our conclusion: Most yarns are generally suitable for warps as well.

But if you want to make things easy for yourself, pay attention to four things when choosing your warp yarn: It should be strong, smooth, evenly twisted and slightly stretchy.

You can find out exactly what this means below:

• Smoothness: Smooth yarns such as cotton or silk glide better through the shed and are easier to work with, even when they lie close together.
  
  
• (Slight) stretchability: A touch of elasticity is helpful, because the threads then tension evenly as you beam the warp, and slight differences in tension even themselves out. Too much stretch is problematic as well: The fabric risks shrinking after weaving as soon as it is taken off the frame and the warp relaxes.
  
  
• Balanced twist: Almost every yarn consists of twisted individual threads. If these are twisted in only one direction (a so-called singles yarn), tension builds up in the material. During weaving, such yarns can become tangled or the warp twists. Better: Use counter-twisted yarns, which lie more calmly on the rigid heddle loom.
  
  
• Tensile strength: Test your yarn with a tug test: Pull sharply on both ends. If it doesn't break, that's a good start. Even better: Pull slowly and evenly. Does the yarn give slightly at first and then hold the tension? Perfect. Does it keep stretching and eventually break? In that case, it's better to use it as a weft yarn.

We at Berliner Webstühle predominantly use weaving yarns from Maurice Brassard, and in addition yarns from the Dutch manufacturer Venne. You can find out more here: Weaving yarns.

What makes a good weft yarn?

Unlike the warp, the weft has a relaxed life: no tension, no great friction. What matters is that the yarn glides easily through the shed, is easy to work with, and is soft enough to be turned back at the selvedges. Even delicate yarns work, as long as the warp is strong enough.

But the weft is what gives your fabric character. Do you want a fine, supple scarf? Then choose soft yarns that match the warp. A mix of silk warp and wiry wool weft won't produce a pleasant fabric – it's more of a scratchy experiment.

Want to know how much weft yarn you need for your project? You'll find a guide to the calculation here: How much weft yarn do you need? A quick guide for weavers.

Summary: What to look for in yarns

• Yarn thickness: For fine fabrics you need thin yarns, for voluminous textiles thick ones.
  
  
• Softness: Does the fabric need to feel pleasant against the skin? Then choose soft yarns. For bags or rugs this matters less.
  
  
• Stability: Soft yarns are often less tear-resistant. Silk and some synthetic yarns are exceptions.
  
  
• Absorbency: Ideal for towels, less so for jackets.
  
  
• Drape: Do you want the fabric to flow beautifully? Then silk is ideal, linen rather less so (unless it is heavily crumpled).
  
  
• Thermal insulation: Wool and silk keep you warm. Cotton and viscose rather less so.
  
  
• Conductivity: Only relevant if you want to work with e-textiles.

With this knowledge, you're ready for your first project on the rigid heddle loom. Have fun experimenting and weaving!

If you are looking for high-quality rigid heddle looms, weaving looms or weaving yarns, we recommend taking a look at our site – Berliner Webstühle.